“The menu is not laid out in chronological order,” Chef Josh Boutwood explained as he introduced us to the main course and to Helm’s unique menu concept monochrome, where each dish is guided not by sequence, but by color.
It was a mesmerizing idea – an invitation to relish not just food but also creativity and imagination. Each hue was evocative of a mood , an inspiration, revealing itself through textures, temperatures, and flavors that intertwined seamlessly.
PURPLE
Tuna. Coconut. Radicchio.
Purple marked the beginning . The radicchio’s gentle bitterness met the bright lift of tamarind, each note unfolding with purpose. A composition of contrast and curiosity , the palate’s first awakening in the language of color.
“This is our bluefin tuna,” Chef Josh began, describing the first course with calm precision.
The tuna was lightly seasoned with sesame and sea salt, paired with daikon (white radish) to alternate the textures .
The sauce was a delicate blend of cabbage juice, coconut, and citrus fruits bringing freshness & balance.
The Italian radicchio, thinly sliced and dressed in extra virgin olive oil and house-made tamarind vinegar, added some acidity, subtle bitterness and depth.
Purple lingered — bittersweet and contemplative — its gentle bitterness and acidity still echoing on the tongue. Then came BLUE…
BLUE
Chawanmushi. Octopus. Spirulina.
Blue arrived like a quiet, contemplative pause after the acidity & freshness of purple. Silken chawanmushi, delicate and savory, provided a soft, comforting base, while tender bits of octopus added a subtle chew and briny depth. A touch of spirulina infused the dish with its signature hue and earthy nuance, tying together oceanic flavors
Flavors soothed, textures intrigued. Blue was the color of reflection, a meditative interlude in the monochromatic journey, inviting the senses to linger and prepare for the vibrancy yet to come.
Each mouthful balanced warmth and savory, silky softness and crunch.
ORANGE
Coho Salmon.Carrot. Szechuan Powder
Orange arrived like a burst of sunlight, vivid and invigorating after the meditative calm of blue.
The coho salmon, lightly cured in salt and sugar, rested on a bed of roasted carrot purée cooked down with brown butter and cream, creating a velvety base rich with sweetness. The plate was finished with a taba ng talangka sauce, simmered with herbs and tomato dashi, adding depth and a whisper of umami.
Crowning the dish was a crisp lavash cracker, flavored with dashi and dusted with Szechuan powder and house-dehydrated carrot powder — a clever touch that tied texture and spice together beautifully.
The dish enticed with its vibrant color . The fun part? Breaking the cracker or lavash and incorporating all the elements in one mouthful.
The Bread Course
Chef Josh introduced us to Sebastian — a 3,152-day-old sourdough starter and, in many ways, a living cornerstone of Chef Josh Boutwood’s craft.
Per Chef Josh, Sebastian is responsible for producing 200 to 300 loaves of bread each week across the chef’s four restaurants.
Two types of bread graced the table, each baked from scratch: sourdough and brioche.
The sourdough, naturally leavened by Sebastian, was paired exclusively with Laudemio olive oil — a premium extra virgin olive oil from the Frescobaldi family estates in Tuscany. Its bright aroma and delicate bitterness brought a refined balance to the bread’s tangy depth.
The brioche, lightly laminated like a croissant, revealed a surprise within — aged Gouda with parsley and garlic, its exterior glazed with a delicate syrup for a subtle sheen and hint of sweetness.
Three accompaniments completed the course:
The Cube – caramelized butter, offering gentle sweetness and nuttiness.
The Spread – rendered pork fat turned into a decadent, spreadable chicharrón, infused with garlic paste.
The Cylinder – classic butter enriched with local sea salt for a clean, mineral finish.
Together, these elements formed a quiet, contemplative prelude to the tasting. Each bite told a story of patience, precision, and the living soul of Sebastian himself.
I wouldn’t have minded taking out a box each of sourdough and brioche . These delightful bread were simply irresistible. Each bite showcased the care and skill behind Sebastian, the 3,152-day-old starter.
From the warmth of the bread course — where caramelized butter, rich pork fat, and sea salt lingered on the palate — the journey turned toward green.
Green arrived as a celebration of vitality after indulgence. The tones shifted from nutty and buttery to herbaceous and bright, signaling a return to balance.
GREEN
Patagonian Toothfish. Dill. Chili.
The Patagonian toothfish, often called snow cod, arrived perfectly cooked, its flesh delicate and buttery. Beneath it lay a smooth cauliflower purée, lending quiet earthiness and gentle richness. On top, pickled rallis brought brightness and acidity, while watercress added a crisp, peppery lift , like the first breath of spring.
A drizzle of dill oil traced an emerald sheen across the plate, its herbaceous fragrance tying the elements together. A final dusting of mixed herb powder completed the palette — a study in shades and textures of green.
Each bite was vibrant yet grounded , a reflection of balance and renewal. After the joy of indulging in freshly baked sourdough and brioche , the green course felt like awakening,the palate refreshed, the journey reborn.
From the fresh vitality of green, the journey descended into brown — deeper, richer, and more deliberate. The light, herbaceous notes gave way to the comforting aroma of the hearth, where flavors turned warm and grounded.
BROWN
Quail · Fregola · Mole
The course featured quail, fresh-flown from France and prepared two ways.
A study in contrast and technique, the first salvo was a delicate butter-basted quail finished with a shoyu glaze sitting on a bed of fregola (small, toasted semolina pearls/pasta) lightly roasted and enriched with chanterelle mushrooms. A whisper of tarragon-pecorino foam added aromatic depth and umami roundness.
The second preparation coated the quail leg in vodka batter and fried to golden crispness. It was paired with a house-made mole, layered with notes of ginger, tablea, lemongrass, and paprika — complex, earthy, and faintly spiced. First time to try chocolate in a savory dish
We were encouraged to enjoy the two quails separately, or together — one delicate, one robust — revealing different shades of flavor within the same color spectrum. Brown was warmth, richness, and mastery; a celebration of depth , before the menu shifted again into new hues.
From the earthy warmth of brown, the menu moved into red — bold, visceral, and full of intent. Where brown comforted, red awakened. The colors deepened, the aromas grew richer, and the air seemed to hum with anticipation.
RED
wagyu. beet root. fermented root crops
The next course was indulgence incarnate: Wagyu, paired with beetroot and fermented root crops was a study in intensity and depth. The meat practically melted on the tongue, its richness amplified by the earthy sweetness of beet and the tang of fermentation.
By this point in the degustación, the handsome hubby and I were already stuffed from the earlier courses, yet the flavors clung to us with delicious persistence. Who could resist such heavenly wagyu? Resistance melted away, and capitulation was deliciously inevitable.
YELLOW
mango.passion fruit. saffron
The final course was sweet, airy, and refined. Mango from Zambales and passion fruit combined with a white chocolate cloud offered a gentle lift, cleansing the palate after the richness of Wagyu.
Just when I thought the experience had ended, more desserts appeared, each delicate and whimsical, accompanied by a cute birthday greeting — a joyful final flourish.
Final Reflections
Reflecting on the Monochrome degustación at Helm Manila, the experience unfolds like a story written in flavor and color—a tale that marks a milestone for Philippine dining, now proudly represented by a Michelin 2-star restaurant.
Every bite is a note in Chef Josh Boutwood’s carefully orchestrated symphony, where texture and technique meet imagination and artistry. Dining here is more than a meal; it is a sensory journey, an experience that lingers long after the last plate is cleared. Beyond the flavors and colors, the Monochrome Menu celebrates creativity, mastery, and the pride of seeing Philippine gastronomy recognized on the world stage. By the final moment, one leaves not just sated but inspired, carrying with them the wonder, delight, and enduring memory of a Michelin 2-star experience realized at home.
Michelin 2 star Degustation Dinner P6500 per person. Add P2k + for wine pairing. We dined last Nov 4
Part 1
Pigoutmanila 